Jorepokhri — the Lake District of North Bengal

Twin lakes, forested tracks and vast stretches of virgin hilly tracts — Jorepokhri is truly the Lake District of Bengal. The name itself suggests a pair of lakes with a beautiful viewpoint amidst Sinchal Forest at an altitude of 7,500 feet above sea level. Located around 20 kilometers from Darjeeling towards Indo-Nepal border, this area offers stunning jungle walks, two Himalayan lakes and an old temple. The lakes are shrouded within thick Junipers and Pines with a hissing wind blowing all the while.

Jungle walk from Sukhiapokhri to Jorepokhri

Sinchal forest

It is little difficult to reach Jorepokhri as there are no direct commutations available from Darjeeling. We had been on a day’s expedition. From the Darjeeling Taxi Stand, we first boarded a shared jeep only to get down at Ghoom. Refreshing ourselves with a cup of steaming golden flush, we got on another public taxi. This time our destination was Sukhiapokhri, a small market, little short of the twin lakes. It took us around an hour to reach Sukhiapokhri Market. The road further went down towards Mirik, while we took an ascending turn up the hill. The entire stretch of 2 kilometers was a forested trail of Sinchal, offering spine chilling feel to our urban souls.

Entrance of Salamander park

Salamander spotting

The trek was not so simple like we initially anticipated. Fear of Himalayan leeches and clouded leopards scared us the most. Thankfully, a couple of roadside seats were there for us to take rest in between. Not many tourists risk the Jorepokhri trek due to fear of unknown dangers including wildlife attack.

Snake fountain of Jorepokhri lake

The twin lake of Jorepokhri

Being off-season the tourist footfalls were really scanty. We did not come across any visitor except a few local love birds on bike. But this time, our main aim was not the sighting of snow peaks but an endangered amphibian which is a resident of Jorepokhri lakes. Rightly guessed, I am talking about Salamander. Drizzling days are the best time when they come nearer to the water surface and chance of sighting is the highest. It was almost an hour’s hike through the forest till we reached the tabletop. A beautiful park welcomed our tired feet. The whole atmosphere was covered in thick mist, with a very low visibility. A giant snake fountain (Kaliya Naag) added to the mystic splendour of the place. There was also an old temple at the southern end of the park. Tiptoeing by the waterside edges to reach there was another delightful experience.

Way to temple

Old temple at other end of lakes

With a daunting trek down the forest, we could not stay long at Jorepokhri. There was a Lepcha snacks bar just beside the park. It was an awesome experience to try home-style thukpa (a soupy noodle preparation), cooked by an octogenarian.

Tourist lodge at Jorepokhri

How to reach: 
Direct private taxi from Darjeeling is the best way to reach Jorepokhri. Otherwise one may try broken routes like boarding a Ghoom bound shared taxi from Darjeeling and then another shared jeep to Sukhiapokhri followed by a jungle trek to Jorepokhri. There are no public transports available in this route.

Where to stay: 
There is a beautiful tourist lodge in Jorepokhri and couple of heritage bungalows. It can also be covered over a day trip from Darjeeling.

What to see around:
Salamander Park, Jorepokhri viewpoint, Twin lakes

Best Time of Visit:
It can be visited round the year, but monsoons offer the highest chance of Salamander spotting in lake waters.

Poetry over a teacup – Bengal’s Tea Tourism Circuit

Imagine staying in a British-styled bungalow, cradled in a lush green tea estate and enjoying all elements of a colonial hangover –from the best Darjeeling tea to old-world wooden chests, tables and a proper tea trail walk! West Bengal government introduced the concept of ‘Tea Tourism’ in 2013, given the numerous tea gardens in North Bengal and their splendid natural settings.

A proposal allowing the tea gardens of Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling to promote tourism using land allowed to be retained u/s 6(3) of the West Bengal Estates Acquisition Act, 1953, for tea gardens was drawn. Promotion of tea tourism would automatically allow the tea gardens to diversify, generate local employment and augment local income. Such a unique form of tourism included an overall experience of tourists in the midst of a tea garden or estate, staying in a heritage bungalow with a homestay feeling in a tea-village or in a modern resort. Trekking in the natural beauty of a lush tea garden, undertaking a tea-testing session, visiting a modern tea factory and even trying one’s hand at plucking tea leaves were taken under the ambit of ‘Tea Tourism.’

Such tourism indirectly helped other activities like trekking along nature trails, witnessing local culture and patronizing local artisans. The land meant for tea tourism was restricted to 5 acres to conserve the area of the tea plantations and in the plains, civil construction was restricted to an area not exceeding 1.5 acres, while in hills it was only 1 acre. For technical guidance, an Expert Committee of engineers and architects selected by the Tourism Department in consultation with tea associations and the Tea Board was set up.

The Tea-Tourism circuits of North Bengal encouraged setting up of wellness centres, educational institutions, hospitals, cultural, recreation and exhibition centres, horticulture, floriculture, medicinal plant cultivation, and food-processing and packaging units helping tea gardens to diversify into areas that acted as back-up during a lean year.

Essentially, Tea Tourism in North Bengal would mean spending a few days in a sprawling tea garden, in a bungalow built by British planters, walking around the garden watching tea pluckers at work, and visiting the processing units to find out how some of the world’s finest teas are processed, packaged, and sent off. An added bonus is the food, sourced from local organic ingredients.

Some well-known Tea Tourism Trails of North Bengal

The picturesque Damdim Tea Estate in Dooars has a stunning beauty, surrounded by dense forests, meandering rivers, sprawling tea gardens and the mighty Himalayas. The 1,500-hectare estate, with 738 hectares of planted area, once belonged to the UK-based James Finlay group and now belongs to Amalgamated Plantations Pvt Ltd, a TATA enterprise. Damdim gives a lifetime experience of a complete Tea Trail, from the first stop at the Vegetative Propagation Tea Nursery, where ‘cutting’ of a single leaf and a bud is done to the last stop, a world-class packaging facility, where you get a chance to turn a tea-taster. 

‘The Sourenee Experience’ of Sourenee Tea Estate is centered around a majestic bungalow, located on a well-maintained highway, linking Siliguri with Darjeeling via Mirik.

Chamong Tea Estate is a beautiful resort in the Jorebungalow region, nestled in the lush green picturesque tea gardens and is pet friendly.

Glenburn Tea Estate is a heavenly little plantation retreat started by a Scottish tea company in 1859, on a hillock above the banks of River Rangeet in Darjeeling, overlooking the mighty Kanchenjunga.

Why not try one such offbeat Tea Tourism trail in North Bengal this season? It will surely leave any tourist mesmerized!

Road Not Taken – The Green Seclusion of Joypur Forest

If you wish to escape to a thick canopy of greens then you must try out the extensive Joypur Forest, at the fringes of Bankura and Hooghly districts. This beautiful stretch will surely be a balm to tired travellers. Very close to Bishnupur, this forest drive can be one of your lifetime experiences. Though not far from Kolkata, its rarely visited by luxury tourists. We always enjoy mystic jungles and Joypur Forest perfectly matched our nomadic thirst.

Roadway to the forest

After a dusty drive, it was around 12 noon when we finally reached the forest fringes. Our stay was pre-booked at a private lodge just beside the forest. Marked as elephant and deer corridors by West Bengal Forest Department, the spectacular green tunnel of around 10 kilometers immediately soothed our city weariness. Quickly freshening up, we decided to go for a walk inside the forest.

Tribal dance at Joypur

There were visibly two trajectories – a wide motor road for forest jeeps and the other was sort of a by-lane, apparently used by villagers to walk on-foot. We chose the latter and promenaded to the unknowns, marking every step as there were chances of losing our way amidst the greens. The forest was much thicker than we had anticipated. Within hundred meters of our hotel, there was another bifurcation. The right lane was more conspicuous. In a mood to enjoy the surrounding natural foliage, we chose to walk further. The green flush of Teak, Sal and Eucalyptus beckoned us to an eternal bliss.

Tribal huts in the forest

As we strolled slowly deeper into the forest, we came across numerous discretely located tribal inhabitations, merrymaking at the onset of monsoon in their naïve style, rumbling at the beating of ethnic musical instruments. With no touch of sophistication, they were enjoying life splendidly, celebrating seasons in their own way.

Walking into the deep forest

Mobile phone signals are not possible within the woods. Hand watch needle indicated quarter to five. It was important to reach our lodge before sunset. Restraining our adventurous instincts, we commenced our retreat. Way back, deep inside the forest we saw an ancient watch tower. It did not seem to be in use for long; probably built by the British during Second World War. Due to frequent snakebites, it has now been completely abandoned.

Way to Joypur forest

A serpentine road, red soil and thick woods – that’s what best describes Joypur Forest. Honestly, it is not an activity-oriented escape but a place of ultimate detox, truly standing out with a green seclusion.

How to Reach:
Around five-hour drive from Kolkata to Joypur Forest along the State Highway. Take the Ahalya Bai Holkar Road via Kotulpur. Distance is 140 kilometers from Kolkata.

Where to Stay:
A couple of private lodges of budget range available.

What to See:
Joypur forest, Watch tower, Depara Naba Ratna temple, Duttapara temple

Best Time of Visit:
Round the year except monsoons

Beaches of Bengal…have fun in the sun

For most people, a relaxing summer vacation means a beach getaway. Whether you’re riding the waves, or simply sitting and looking at the wide expanse of the sea, it’s almost like summer and sea are synonymous!

Bengal, situated on the eastern coastline of India, shares borders with the majestic Bay of Bengal. Since summer is knocking on our doors, here is a list of beaches in Bengal that one can pay a visit to.

Located at the northern end of Bay of Bengal, Digha is the most visited beach in Bengal. The entire expanse of the Digha beach can be divided into two parts, the old Digha beach and the new Digha beach. The beaches of both old Digha and new Digha are famous for changing its shoreline over the course of the day. Nearby attractions include the Amarabati Park, a well-maintained park with a mini-lake and a ropeway. Chandaneshwar, with it’s century old Shiva temple, is also worth a visit for the religiously inclined.

Known as the virgin beach of West Bengal, Tajpur is the most unexplored and quiet beach of the state. With it’s beautifully pristine and serene shoreline, this beach is the perfect getaway for people who are looking for a chance to escape the maddening crowd and are lovers of solitude. Just 16kms away from Digha, Tajpur is an ideal place for photography enthusiasts, since there is a lot of scope to click beautiful pictures all around. Walk around in the dense casuarina forests and see seagulls at the break of dawn..Tajpur will surely rejuvinate you .

The current favourite beach for backpackers and weekenders is the Bakkhali beach. This crescent shaped beach of white sand in Kakdwip is extremely clean and that is what attracts majority of the crowd. The waves aren’t that rough in this area, so clearly one can take a dip in the sea without any worries. A must-visit destination here is Henry’s Island, with it’s virgin beach lined with mangroves, abundant red crabs and migratory birds.  The Bishallakshmi temple nearby is also worth a visit.

Clear blue waters and majestic views of sunset are bound to make anyone fall in love with Mandarmani .This beach happens to be extremely popular for water sports. It is also known to be the longest drivable beach in India.Mandarmani is one of the fastest developing sea side resort village of West Bengal.

If you are someone who loves panoramic images, then Frazerganj Beach is your place to be. Unlike other beaches of the state, this yet to be ventured beach offers white sand and clear blue water that is yet relatively untouched by weekenders. The Frazerganj beach welcomes migratory avifauna which adds to the the magnetism of this place.

Acknowledged for its natural beauty, Junput is 40kms away from Digha. This village includes an old temple which served as the setting of Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay’s classic novel “Kapalkundala.” Junput is best reached through Contai which is approximately 150 kms away from Kolkata. There is a lighthouse overlooking the sea, which serves as a major attraction for tourists.

With a vast coastline, choosing your beach getaway is not too hard in Bengal. So pack your bags for summer and give yourself a rush of Vitamin Sea!

Purulia- in search of ‘Palash’ and ‘Chhau’

Purulia –

Thinking of a rugged terrain, with rocky hills and lush green forests – Think Purulia.

Situated by the Kangsabati River, Purulia is also known as Manbhum city. In ancient times it was known as Vajra Bhumi. It is a district steeped in a blend of nature, history and folkart. The undulating landscape is of red soil and the blazing red of the Palash flower in bloom. A rich Tribal culture adds to the mysticism of this land.

Temple Run 

While in Purulia, Deulghata is a must see. 27 kms away from Purulia, these temples are believed to date back to the 11^th – 13^th Century. The walls of the Deuls(Temple Tower) are covered with decorative bricks and are believed to have been built by the Jains.

Banda Temple is also in all probability a Jain Temple and is the best preserved one.  The 75 mt sandstone temple was built in the 11^th Certury AD. It has an ornate and beautiful lotus shaped finial, which unfortunately Deulghata temples don’t have. The outer walls have intricate and beautiful floral and geometric patterns.

Cheliama , the big village contains the temple most richly decorated with intricate terracotta work and one of the few surviving ones from the 17^th century.  The Radha- Govinda temple have archways depicting Krishna Leela or avatars of Vishnu.

Purulia Chhau

Having seen the temples, if one wants to witness the original folk art and culture of Purulia, one must watch the Chhau Dance. Chhau is a semi-classical dance form with martial, tribal and folk origin. The dances have various sub-texts which can vary from religious themes like Shaivism, Jainism, Shaktism to martial arts, acrobatics or celebrating a particular festival.  The Purulia Chhau Dance is listed on the UNESCO’s world heritage list of dances. The Purulia Chhau is distinctly different than the other two forms of Chhau, namely the Seraikella Chhau and the Mayurbhanj Chhau; in using distinctly different and crafted masks.  The dancers don the masks of the characters they are depicting. For example, someone depicting a lion has a face mask of a lion and the body costumes too, with the dancer walking on all four. The Chhau masks are works of great craftsmanship and is registered un der the GI or the Geographical Indications tag.

Did you know Hindi films have also shown the Purulia Chhau?

Well… The Hindi film Lootera opens with a Chhau dance sequence depicting the Ramayana. Barfi too had several scenes of Purulia Chhau.

Jhumur –

Jhumur songs are extremely popular among artisan communities like the Kurmi, Kumhaar, Rajwer or tribal communities like Santhal, Munda, Oraon, Kharia, Birharh tribes. Jhumur is known for its lyrical and literary significance because of the use of ancient language. Different Jhumur songs are sung at different times of the year

Eco-Tourism

Pakhi Pahar in the vicinity of the Pardi Dam, Tugga and Bramni Falls,Matha Hills amongst numerous other places deserves definite visit while in Purulia.  Numerous nature and rock climbing courses are conducted in the Matha Pahar region, which is known for its aesthetic beauty.

Visit the area around Bagmundi or Ayodhya Hills, which are parts of an extended plateau. Sit and revel at the serenity of Khairabera and Saheb Bandh.

How to Get There

Purulia can be reached by train, bus or any private vehicle from major cities like Kolkata, Ranchi, Jamshedpur, Bokaro and Asansol.

Murguma – a reservoir in the heart of the Ajodya hills

The Saharajhore River serves as the foundation for the Murguma Dam

About 55 kilometres from Purulia town, the Murguma Dam, or Reservoir, is situated in the Jhalda Block, to the north of Begunkodar. It is a tribal village in the Purulia District that stands on the border of Jharkhand and Purulia. It works as a tributary to the Kangsabati River. Surrounded by the beautiful Ajodya hills, Murguma is a great location for a picnic. 

The road going to the lake will turn off and head to the neighbouring forests at a distance of around two kilometres from the lake. Muruguma, which is a part of the Ajodhya Pahar range, is frequently used by visitors as a stopover en route to the main Ajodhya Pahar attractions, including the Lower Dam, Upper Dam, Pakhi Pahar, Bamni Waterfall, Turga Waterfall, Deulghata Temple, Charida Mask Village, Tarpania Lake, and Khairabera Lake.

The Saharajhore River serves as the foundation for the Murguma Dam. The dam is being built at the foot of the Ajodhya Hills, close to the town of Murguma. In addition, several additional streams enter the dam straight from the Ajodhya Hills. There are hills, trees, and a lot of tiny islands all around the dam. The location lies on Ajodhya Hills, which are thought of as the eastern continuation of the Chota Nagpur Plateau. The oldest residents here are the tribal people, primarily the Santals. Agriculture is the foundation of their economy. The dam is depicted in the Purulia District brochure of the government tourism department. Being isolated from urban interference, the Murguma dam is a hub for researching the local aquatic flora and fauna.

The airport closest to Purulia is Kolkata’s Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport, which is around 250 kilometres away. You can then travel to Purulia by bus or train from there. Purulia is 322 kilometres away from Kolkata via rail. There are frequently departing trains from Kolkata bound for Purulia. The shortest rail ride from Kolkata to Purulia is 5 hours and 25 minutes. It has good road connections to nearby cities including Bankura, Asansol, Bokaro, Jamshedpur, Ranchi, and others in the state bordering Kolkata. Jhalda is the closest train station, and a single metalled road from there connects it to the location.

Charkhole – a holiday gateway to crave for

Charkhole is a bird watcher’s paradise

The natural world has abandoned all of its riches at a height of 5,500 feet on this one isolated small patch of land in the Himalayas. Charkhole, a tiny Lepcha town, is known for its idyllic natural settings. Charkhole offers an enigmatic warmth and the broadest vista of the snow-capped Kanchenjunga. Covered in enormous Pine, Cypress, Oak, Shal, and Rhododendron trees, Charkhole is a bird watcher’s paradise. You will undoubtedly be amazed to see birds of several endangered species, such as the Blue-fronted Redstart, Indian Robin, Green-backed Tit, Pipit, Ashley Prinia, and many others.

Beautiful orchid varieties make the location even more beautiful. Ensure an unforgettable experience by watching the sensual sunrise or brilliant sunset from the adjacent hilltop of Jhandi Dara. Even Mt. Everest is visible from the location on clear days. There are many hike routes and trip destinations available from Charkhole. A trip to Kaffer Lolegaon, Lava, Rishyap, Pedong, Rishi, Rikisum, and Gumba Dara will make your Charkhole vacation something you’ll remember forever.

However, the well-known “Canopy Walk” along the suspended wooden footbridge amid the enormous pines and oaks is the most popular attraction at Lolegaon. Another newly discovered wonderland, “Chuikhim,” is only a short distance from here. The best thing to do in Charkhole is to climb to the Gamphus Dara Viewpoint to witness an amazing sunrise. The short hiking track that leads to this outcrop winds through a sparsely forested area. 

If you want to go straight from NJP to Charkhole, the Sevoke Road will take you there in around 3.5 hours. There are no shared taxis in Charkhole, therefore you must book a reserved cab to get there. A worthwhile side trip from Lava, Loleygaon, and Kalimpong is Charkhole has already received numerous honours for being the “most promising offbeat destination.” You can walk through the woods, enjoy a bonfire under the stars, and sip some delicious elaichi tea. If you visit Charkhole, make sure to purchase some hot red pickles from the neighbourhood stores.

One can undoubtedly choose Morgan House Tourism Property in Kalimpong for a great stay in Charkhole. Operated by WBTDCL, it guarantees a tranquil retreat with a gorgeous view.

Mukutmanipur, the charm never fades

Bankura in West Bengal is a land known for its red earth and rugged landscape, and yet it is also home to the lush green, tranquil haven known as Mukutmanipur, a village of 450-odd inhabitants which occupies pride of place on Bengal’s tourism map, particularly as an ideal weekend getaway.

Country roads…

Kansabati River

Located at the confluence of the  Kangsabati  and Kumari rivers, close to the Jharkhand border and approximately 30 km from Bankura city, Mukutmanipur is also famous for its massive earthen dam, the second largest in India. The 86 sq km reservoir formed by the Kangsabati Project is truly spectacular, too, particularly when water flows across the rocky river.

Pareshnath Shiv temple

The 700-year-old Ambikanagar Temple

The length of the Kangsabati dam is roughly 11 km, and it offers irrigation for nearly 8,000 sq. km of land, across the districts of Purulia, Bankura, Paschim Medinipur and some parts of Hooghly. The dam has become a perfect picnic spot, particularly in winter, though if you visit between July and September, you will witness the dam’s open lock gates too, when the reservoir is full and the Kangsabati is in fierce flow.

The stretch of reflections

The rugged terrain

The lake offers boat rides to some of its many islands, including one with the Bonpukuria deer park. Among the other tourist attractions are Sonajhuri Nature Park, the nearly 700-year-old Ambikanagar Temple about five km from Mukutmanipur, and the Pareshnath Shiv temple near Musafirana view point.

The serene waterscape

However, Mukutmanipur itself is so very lovely and serene that you may not wish to move out at all!

 How to get there:

At least eight trains to Bankura are available from Howrah station. Once you reach Bankura station, take a toto to the bus stand, and you will find hundreds of public buses going to Mukutmanipur. Alternatively, you can make the entire journey by car, but a train is advisable.
The train journey from Howrah to Bankura takes about 4.5 hours. And the bus ride from Bankura to Mukutmanipur lasts about two hours. Direct buses are also available from Kolkata to Mukutmanipur, but the journey time is roughly nine hours.

Where to stay

Mukutmanipur is home to numerous hotels of all sizes and catering to all budgets. Information about these places is freely available on the net, though you might wish to contact the following for further details:

Department of Tourism
Government of West Bengal
New Secretariat Building
1, K. S. Roy Road, 3rd Floor,
Kolkata 700001
E-mail: wbtourismpublicity1@gmail.com
Regional Tourist Office/ Booking Office
Tourism Centre: 033-2243 6440
Toll Free No: 1800 2121 655
90733 86803, 90733 86804, 90733 27315

Bakkhali is a destination like no other

Before you do anything else in Bakkhali, take a walk down its south-facing crescent shaped beach. Nothing short of a geographical oddity, it is one of those rare beaches in the world that offer an equally spectacular view of sunrise and sunset. Nearly eight km long, the beach stretches from Bakkhali to Frasergunj, which started out as separate settlements, but have now merged to form one continuous township.

A perfect weekend destination

Since it is a hard beach, you can actually cycle or even drive on it, but we would recommend a leisurely walk, sipping on coconut water. Unless it is a holiday, the beach is not particularly populous either, so solitude is not a problem.

A shot from Frasergunj

Of course, Bakkhali is not just confined to its beach, as many of us know. Located on one of the many deltaic islands on the Bay of Bengal, this popular tourist destination offers trips to other nearby islands, most of which are part of the Sundarbans.

Balutot Tourism Property

The scenic beauty of Bakkhali is best experienced during February-March and October-December. The attractions in and around Bakkhali would require at least three days to cover, so an extended weekend would be the perfect plan.

Stretch of white sand beach at Henry’s Island

Whatever else you do, a visit to Henry’s Island is a must. Just about 10 minutes from Bakkhali by car, it is also easily accessible via totos and rickshaw vans. In fact, quite a few visitors actually stay in one of three Fisheries Department guest houses on the island, which also houses a state pisciculture project. One of them has a watch tower offering a fantastic view of the surroundings. The island is typical of the Sundarbans region in terms of flora. So you will negotiate canals and mangroves as you walk around.

The Tourism Property amidst the greens

Apart from Henry’s Island, there is the Benfish harbour and Frasergunj Beach, a Crocodile Park and mangrove forest just adjacent to Bakkhali bus stop, and the smaller island called Jambu Dwip, which is only accessible by boat, and a thrilling ride it is too.

 How to get there 
Bakkhali is 122 km by road from Kolkata, via Diamond Harbour and Kakdwip to Namkhana. In 2019, a bridge over the Hatania-Doania river at Namkhana was opened to small passenger vehicles, so you may now travel directly to Bakkhali without waiting for the ferry. The 130 km stretch from Kona expressway to Bakkhali has been marked as National Highway 117.

The nearest railhead is Namkhana, which is linked to Kolkata’s Sealdah station through regular trains via Lakshmikantapur and Kakdwip. The timings are available on the railway website.
The third option is the WBSTC bus service from Dharmatala to Bakkhali. However, the schedule is subject to change, so it is best to confirm it at the Dharmatala Bus Terminus.

Where to stay

The government accommodation is called Balutot Tourism Property (earlier Bakkhali Tourist Lodge).
Address: National Highway 117, Laxmipur Prabartak, South 24 Parganas, Pin: 743357
Post Office: Laxmipur Prabartak
Phone: 9732510150
Email: bkhltl123@rediffmail.com
In addition, there are numerous private properties, details of which are freely available on the net.

For further details, contact:

State Fisheries Development Corporation, Bikash Bhavan, Salt Lake, Kolkata
Phone: (033) 2337 6470

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a bit of world heritage in Bengal

The line opened between Siliguri and Kurseong in August 1880

There are quite a few landmark years in the history of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR). The first of these is 1878, when Franklin Prestage proposed a narrow gauge (610 mm) hill tramway to Darjeeling from the recently built Northern Bengal Railway terminus in Siliguri. The idea was to reduce the haulage rates of commodities (such as rice) to Darjeeling and improve the viability of local industries (such as tea). The government supported the scheme to reduce road maintenance costs.

By August 1880, the line had opened to the public between Siliguri and Kurseong. Larger Class 2 (later Class A) locomotives were ordered from Sharp Stewart, UK and delivered in 1882-3. In July 1881, the extended line from Kurseong to Darjeeling was opened by Sir Ashley Eden, Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, and in 1882, the first full year of operations, DHR had carried 8,000 passengers and 380 tonnes of freight.

From then on, the numbers simply continued to grow. By 1930, despite increasing competition from private cars and buses, DHR was still carrying 258,000 passengers and 80,000 tonnes of freight annually. Post-Independence in 1948, the Government of India purchased DHR on October 20 and the line was absorbed into the Indian Railways.

The first major crisis that DHR faced was in 1992, when competition from road haulage and interruption to services in previous years finally ended freight traffic, and Indian Railways decided to close DHR. Local citizens led by Sherab Tenduf-la, owner of the famed Windamere Hotel, set up the DHR Heritage Foundation and organised a series of stakeholder workshops. Thanks to their continued efforts, closure plans were abandoned in 1994, and in 1999, UNESCO declared DHR a World Heritage Site.

Running between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling today, the DHR climbs from about 100 m (330 ft) to about 2,200 m (7,200 ft), using six zigzags and five loops to gain altitude, including the famous Batasia Loop, where a small market has sprung up to cater to tourists on the train. Six diesel locomotives handle most of the scheduled service, with daily tourist trains from Darjeeling to Ghum India’s highest railway station – and there is also a special steam-hauled Red Panda service from Darjeeling to Kurseong. These specials are hauled by vintage British B-Class steam locomotives.

We don’t want to spoil the DHR experience by giving all of it away. You must come and experience the ride for yourself. While here, stay at the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation’s beautiful Meghbalika Tourism Property (formerly Darjeeling Tourist Lodge) which offers excellent accommodation at extremely reasonable rates. For for reservations and other information, do get in touch with WBTDCL.