Poetry over a teacup – Bengal’s Tea Tourism Circuit

Imagine staying in a British-styled bungalow, cradled in a lush green tea estate and enjoying all elements of a colonial hangover –from the best Darjeeling tea to old-world wooden chests, tables and a proper tea trail walk! West Bengal government introduced the concept of ‘Tea Tourism’ in 2013, given the numerous tea gardens in North Bengal and their splendid natural settings.

A proposal allowing the tea gardens of Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling to promote tourism using land allowed to be retained u/s 6(3) of the West Bengal Estates Acquisition Act, 1953, for tea gardens was drawn. Promotion of tea tourism would automatically allow the tea gardens to diversify, generate local employment and augment local income. Such a unique form of tourism included an overall experience of tourists in the midst of a tea garden or estate, staying in a heritage bungalow with a homestay feeling in a tea-village or in a modern resort. Trekking in the natural beauty of a lush tea garden, undertaking a tea-testing session, visiting a modern tea factory and even trying one’s hand at plucking tea leaves were taken under the ambit of ‘Tea Tourism.’

Such tourism indirectly helped other activities like trekking along nature trails, witnessing local culture and patronizing local artisans. The land meant for tea tourism was restricted to 5 acres to conserve the area of the tea plantations and in the plains, civil construction was restricted to an area not exceeding 1.5 acres, while in hills it was only 1 acre. For technical guidance, an Expert Committee of engineers and architects selected by the Tourism Department in consultation with tea associations and the Tea Board was set up.

The Tea-Tourism circuits of North Bengal encouraged setting up of wellness centres, educational institutions, hospitals, cultural, recreation and exhibition centres, horticulture, floriculture, medicinal plant cultivation, and food-processing and packaging units helping tea gardens to diversify into areas that acted as back-up during a lean year.

Essentially, Tea Tourism in North Bengal would mean spending a few days in a sprawling tea garden, in a bungalow built by British planters, walking around the garden watching tea pluckers at work, and visiting the processing units to find out how some of the world’s finest teas are processed, packaged, and sent off. An added bonus is the food, sourced from local organic ingredients.

Some well-known Tea Tourism Trails of North Bengal

The picturesque Damdim Tea Estate in Dooars has a stunning beauty, surrounded by dense forests, meandering rivers, sprawling tea gardens and the mighty Himalayas. The 1,500-hectare estate, with 738 hectares of planted area, once belonged to the UK-based James Finlay group and now belongs to Amalgamated Plantations Pvt Ltd, a TATA enterprise. Damdim gives a lifetime experience of a complete Tea Trail, from the first stop at the Vegetative Propagation Tea Nursery, where ‘cutting’ of a single leaf and a bud is done to the last stop, a world-class packaging facility, where you get a chance to turn a tea-taster. 

‘The Sourenee Experience’ of Sourenee Tea Estate is centered around a majestic bungalow, located on a well-maintained highway, linking Siliguri with Darjeeling via Mirik.

Chamong Tea Estate is a beautiful resort in the Jorebungalow region, nestled in the lush green picturesque tea gardens and is pet friendly.

Glenburn Tea Estate is a heavenly little plantation retreat started by a Scottish tea company in 1859, on a hillock above the banks of River Rangeet in Darjeeling, overlooking the mighty Kanchenjunga.

Why not try one such offbeat Tea Tourism trail in North Bengal this season? It will surely leave any tourist mesmerized!

Baranti, the dream eco-tourism destination

Baranti (or Barhanti) is a small tribal village in Raghunathpur subdivision of Purulia district. Situated beside Baranti Lake, it is a still growing, and quiet, tourist destination. Not too far from Asansol (about 38 km), Baranti is located amidst the Panchet (Panchakot), Gorongi, and Biharinath hills, with the Baranti river flowing by the side of Muradi hill.

Garh Panchkot

These dry geographical facts, however, do no justice to the stunning beauty of the landscape and the magnetic charm of a sunset over the lake. Actually, the lake is a reservoir under the Ramchandrapur Medium Irrigation Project on the Baranti river. The area has been popular for a while as a hill and jungle trekking destination, but there are other attractions too. Garh Panchkot, for instance, is a mere 12 km away, while Joychandi Pahar (where Satyajit Ray’s iconic ‘Hirak Rajar Deshe’ was shot) is only 21 km from Baranti. Biharinath, also known as the ‘Araku Valley of Bengal’, is 18 km away. So you have plenty to do during your weekend trip.

Joychandi Pahar

Your stay at the government-run Baranti Eco Tourism resort will be enriched by the lush forests of sal, piyal, mahua and teak trees. And every year, during winter, thousands of migratory birds throng the reservoir. Apart from wild rabbits and boar, there are deer grazing all over the hills too. Surrounded by such natural wealth, you could choose to picnic in the Rarh countryside, trekking, hiking, or simply wandering through the hills.

Baranti Eco Tourism Resort

You could also drive up to Panchet and Maithon Dam to soak in the beauty of the rivers, and visit Raghunathpur village for its exquisite tussar silk sarees. For the more adventurous minded, a hike up Baranti Hill with the help of a local guide is perfect. The hilltop offers a breathtaking view of the dam and the rugged landscape that surrounds it.

The best time to visit Baranti Eco Tourism is winter (October-February), though a monsoon visit (July-September) has its own unique charm, since the lake in particular is at its best then. Summer (March-June) is perhaps avoidable, because Purulia is known for its hot and dry weather.

Shoilpik Tourism Property

For those seeking alternative accommodation, the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd’s excellent and spacious Shoilpik Tourism Property (earlier Pathik Motel) in Durgapur is just over a 90-minute drive from Baranti, so you can just as well stay there. For details, do contact  

West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd
DG Block, Sector-II, Salt Lake
Kolkata 700091
Phone: (033) 2358 5189, Fax: 2359 8292
Website: https://www.wbtdcl.com/
Email: visitwestbengal@yahoo.co.in, mdwbtdc@gmail.com, dgmrwbtdc@gmail.com

Murguma – a reservoir in the heart of the Ajodya hills

The Saharajhore River serves as the foundation for the Murguma Dam

About 55 kilometres from Purulia town, the Murguma Dam, or Reservoir, is situated in the Jhalda Block, to the north of Begunkodar. It is a tribal village in the Purulia District that stands on the border of Jharkhand and Purulia. It works as a tributary to the Kangsabati River. Surrounded by the beautiful Ajodya hills, Murguma is a great location for a picnic. 

The road going to the lake will turn off and head to the neighbouring forests at a distance of around two kilometres from the lake. Muruguma, which is a part of the Ajodhya Pahar range, is frequently used by visitors as a stopover en route to the main Ajodhya Pahar attractions, including the Lower Dam, Upper Dam, Pakhi Pahar, Bamni Waterfall, Turga Waterfall, Deulghata Temple, Charida Mask Village, Tarpania Lake, and Khairabera Lake.

The Saharajhore River serves as the foundation for the Murguma Dam. The dam is being built at the foot of the Ajodhya Hills, close to the town of Murguma. In addition, several additional streams enter the dam straight from the Ajodhya Hills. There are hills, trees, and a lot of tiny islands all around the dam. The location lies on Ajodhya Hills, which are thought of as the eastern continuation of the Chota Nagpur Plateau. The oldest residents here are the tribal people, primarily the Santals. Agriculture is the foundation of their economy. The dam is depicted in the Purulia District brochure of the government tourism department. Being isolated from urban interference, the Murguma dam is a hub for researching the local aquatic flora and fauna.

The airport closest to Purulia is Kolkata’s Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport, which is around 250 kilometres away. You can then travel to Purulia by bus or train from there. Purulia is 322 kilometres away from Kolkata via rail. There are frequently departing trains from Kolkata bound for Purulia. The shortest rail ride from Kolkata to Purulia is 5 hours and 25 minutes. It has good road connections to nearby cities including Bankura, Asansol, Bokaro, Jamshedpur, Ranchi, and others in the state bordering Kolkata. Jhalda is the closest train station, and a single metalled road from there connects it to the location.

Why the Bishnupur Museum in Bankura is a must visit

Just about 1 km from Jor Bangla Temple and 2 km from Bishnupur bus station stands an extraordinary building – the Bishnupur Museum. The official address is Dalmadal Para, and the museum is officially known as Acharya Jogesh Chandra Purakriti Bhawan, but whichever name you call it by, it is an absolute must visit when you go to Bishnupur, not least because it is the only museum in the district of Bankura on art and archaeology. And it is a ‘living’ museum too, the latest sculpture having been discovered as recently as March 5, adjacent to an old temple in Nalicha village in the Patrasayer police station area, alongside the Dwarakeswar river.

The entrance of the museum

Today, the museum houses nearly 5,000 old manuscripts such as the ‘Chaitanya Charitamrita’, ‘Madanmohan Bandana’, and various ayurvedic texts, more than 100 sculptures dating primarily from the 10th-12th century AD, remnants of British history, and several priceless specimens of textiles, various photographs, and tribal art and craft.

In fact, the Dwarakeswar, which rises in Purulia and enters Bankura near Chhatna, has been a rich source of many of the sculptures housed in the museum. In 2006, for instance, a statue of the first Jain tirthankara Rishabhnath or Adinath was recovered from the river near Ajodhya village. It has also yielded up Hindu and Buddhist sculptures. As an aside, the Dwarakeswar, having flown through Bankura, East Bardhaman, and Hooghly, eventually joins up with the Silai near Ghatal in West Medinipur to form the Rupnarayan, which in turn flows into the Hooghly at Gadiara in Howrah.

Tushar Sarkar, the current curator of Bishnupur Museum, says that when it was established in 1951, the museum was a private effort, led largely by such local luminaries as former Bishnupur High School teacher Maniklal Singha, and a few of his colleagues such as Chittaranjan Dasgupta. These founders sourced artefacts from various sources, including private collections, and the museum’s sizable collection was eventually taken over by the West Bengal government’s Directorate of Archaeology and Museums. 

Today, the museum houses nearly 5,000 old manuscripts such as the ‘Chaitanya Charitamrita’, ‘Madanmohan Bandana’, and various ayurvedic texts, more than 100 sculptures dating primarily from the 10th-12th century AD, remnants of British history, and several priceless specimens of textiles, various photographs, and tribal art and craft. That apart, there are microliths from the Mesolithic and Chalcolithic eras, coins and artefacts from various historical eras such as the Pushana, Sunga, Gupta, and Pala, establishing a history of continuous human habitation in Bankura from prehistoric times. 

There is also an entire gallery dedicated to the Bishnupur gharana (loosely translated as tradition), the only Indian classical music tradition from Bengal, including the musical instruments used by such stalwarts as Gopeswar Bandyopadhyay and his peers, many of them now extinct.

The other remarkable collection in the museum comes from the Dihar archaeological site, 8 km north of Bishnupur by the banks of the Kana river, a tributary of the Dwarakeswar. The oldest discoveries at Dihar date back roughly 3,200 years, making it one of the earliest sites of human habitation discovered in Bengal, showing successive layers of prehistory, proto-history and history. According to Sarkar, the founding fathers of the Bishnupur Museum initially sourced many of the site’s artefacts, before the Archaeology department of Calcutta University led a series of organised digs in the area. Much of the ‘explored material’ from the site now rests in the Bishnupur Museum, while the ‘excavated material’ was collected by the university’s Archaeology department. 

The land of Terracotta temples

“The museum offers glimpses of the entire history of Bankura district, including the prehistoric artefacts from Susunia Hill,” says Sarkar. “There are also important cultural markers from various ages. For example, when (24th Jain tirthankara) Mahavira visited this region in the 6th century BC, suspicious locals set their dogs on him, but the sheer number of Jain statues that we have discovered shows that this was the beginning of ‘Aryanisation’ in the region.”

 Getting there 
Bishnupur is a roughly 4.5-hour drive from Kolkata, but you can also take a train, which will take you about three hours, or a bus from Esplanade in Kolkata, a drive of around four hours. In these pandemic times, however, make sure you avail public transport only if all Covid protocol is strictly followed.

Bishnupur Tourism Property

 Where to stay 
The Bishnupur Tourism Property (formerly Bishnupur Tourist Lodge) run by the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation provides ample and comfortable accommodation. For bookings and other details, you could wither contact the property directly at  +91 97321 00950 or bishnupurtl@gmail.com, or contact

West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd
DG Block, Sector-II, Salt Lake
Kolkata 700091
Phone: (033) 2358 5189, Fax: 2359 8292
Website: https://www.wbtdcl.com/
Email: visitwestbengal@yahoo.co.in, mdwbtdc@gmail.com, dgmrwbtdc@gmail.com

Murshidabad’s Kherur Mosque, a vision in terracotta

The word ‘terracotta’ means baked earth. Simply put, it is what you get when clay is hard-baked, producing a strong, durable construction material that is also naturally resistant to mould and bacteria. And terracotta architecture is something you see in abundance in West Bengal, particularly in the Bishnupur region, which is justifiably famed for its historic and magnificent terracotta temples. A major reason for the use of terracotta, of course, was the relative inaccessibility of other more traditional construction materials such as stone or marble.

However, the use of terracotta in Bengal’s architecture dates further back – to the terracotta mosques scattered across modern day Murshidabad, Birbhum, and Bardhaman, as well as parts of Bangladesh. Not having garnered as much of the limelight as the temples, these mosques are nonetheless excellent examples of Bengal’s terracotta craftsmanship, with their beautifully symmetrical layouts and ornate engravings.

A prime example of such a mosque is the Kherur Masjid in Murshidabad, though the district is also home to bigger, perhaps more famous mosques. Located almost 50 km from Berhampore, Kherur Mosque is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India, and should be a must visit for those interested in the architectural and social history of Bengal.

Two inscriptions within the premises declare that the mosque was built by Rafat Khan in 1494-95, during the reign of Alauddin Hussain Shah, sultan of Bengal from 1494-1519. Ap-proximately three metres (18 feet) high, and occupying about two acres of land, the mosque is not particularly lavish, and yet it is a perfect example of the terracotta craftsmanship unique to Bengal. It is also an important representative of mosque architecture of the pre-Mughal period, with a frontal corridor, which was typical of the later Ilyas Shahi erain Bengal.

Essentially a rectangular structure, the mosque comprises a domed prayer chamber and a tri-ple-domed corridor with four minarets. While almost the entire structure is made of baked earth bricks, there are smatterings of stone in the pillars and prayer chamber, which were probably borrowed from older, rundown structures. Incidentally, the principal dome was al-most entirely destroyed in the huge earthquake of 1897, but the domes atop the corridor re-main to this day. Similarly, the north-western minaret no longer exists, but the remaining three are still standing.

How to get there 
Easily accessible from Berhampore town, which is about 230 km from Kolkata by road. You can also take a train from Kolkata, of which there are several.

For details contact
West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.
Udayachal Tourist Lodge
DG Block (1st floor), Sec II, Salt Lake,Kolkata700091
Phone: 033 2358 5189
Email: visitwestbengal@yahoo.co.in, mdwbtdc@gmail.com, dgmrwbtdc@gmail.com

Department of Tourism,
Government of West Bengal
New Secretariat Building
1, K. S. Roy Road, 3rd Floor,Kolkata 700001
Pr. Secy- 033-2214-4427
Direct – 033-2210-0098
E-Mail:wbtourismpublicity@gmail.com

The places of worship in old Calcutta, and what we learn from them

Armenian Church

“Our next walk will begin from Old China Bazar Street.” That is how the last edition of our walk around Kolkata had ended. As promised, we begin this weekend’s walk from one of the city’s oldest quarters, one that even predates the arrival of the British in some cases. The easiest starting point is the General Post Office or GPO, from where you can walk down India Exchange Place and turn left onto Radhabazar Street, which in turn emerges into Old China Bazar Street. This bazar was once called Radhabazar too, and belonged to an old Armenian family called Apcar. The name Radhabazar comes from Radhanath Tagore, whose family were the original owners of the land.

According to some accounts, the bazar dates back to as early as 1757, and the name ‘China Bazar’ came from the fact that it dealt primarily in several kinds of China crockery and other Chinese goods. Today, of course, there is almost nothing that this bazar doesn’t sell, and we mean that literally. Of course, a lot of the business here is done wholesale, and not all shops sell to individual small buyers. 

Point A – Armenian Church

The Armenians arrived in Calcutta almost at the same time as Job Charnock, that is, at the end of the 17th century. Most of them came not from the relatively modern nation of Armenia, but from West Asia. Of course, they were by no means the first foreigners to land on these shores. The Portuguese had superseded both the Armenians and the British, entering Bengal in the 16th century, while the Dutch had settled in Chinsurah around 1610. 

Before the British grew roots here, the Armenians were easily the most prosperous community in Calcutta, thanks to their superb business sense and financial acumen. Even today, if you trace the history of some of the city’s oldest and most magnificent mansions, chances are that you will discover they once belonged to an Armenian family by the name of Chater, Apcar, Galstaun, and the like.  

Their Church of the Holy Nazareth is approached from Old China Bazar Street, which crosses Canning Street and turns right into Armenian Street. More commonly known as the Armenian Church, it was originally built of wood in 1707, but destroyed in a fire just a few years later. Rebuilt from scratch with brick and mortar in 1724, it predates St John’s Church by several decades. Some of the most interesting things about the church are its old gravestones, many of them with Cyrillic (the alphabet used in Russian and a few other languages) inscriptions. 

Standing among these is the famous – or controversial, depending on your point of view – gravestone of Rezabeebeh, wife of ‘the late Charitable Sookias’, who died on July 11, 1630. If the date on the gravestone is to be believed, then this is the oldest Christian grave in Kolkata. Which begs the question, if the church itself was built in 1707, from where did this tombstone come? And why is the inscription in English and not Cyrillic? 

Point B – Maghen David Synagogue

Retrace your steps back to Canning Street (or Biplabi Rashbehari Basu Road), and walk to the corner where it meets Brabourne Road to the east. Right on the intersection of the two roads stands the Maghen David Synagogue. This is a splendid representation of Calcutta’s once thriving Jewish community, who arrived in India many centuries ago, though their settlements were confined primarily to western India. Arriving in Calcutta around 1790, they quickly established themselves as astute business people and their prosperity grew in leaps in bounds. Post-Independence, most of them migrated to Israel, and their numbers in the city have now declined to just a handful.

The site where Maghen David now stands was the location for the Neveh Shalom synagogue, built in 1826. Parts of it can still be seen, though it made way for Maghen David in 1884, coinciding with the time when Calcutta got its first Jewish sheriff, the redoubtable Elias David Joseph Ezra. The building has been taken over by the Archaeological Survey of India, but you can photograph it from the outside, and it is open on Saturdays, the Jeiwsh sabbath.  

Point C – Portuguese Church

Cross Brabourne Road from Maghen David, and you come upon the Portuguese Church, formerly known as the Cathedral of the Holy Rosary. Set up in 1747, this was Calcutta’s first Catholic place of worship, though some accounts state that it stands on land originally occupied by a chapel of the Order of St Augustine in 1700. The Catholic church had to suspend services for some time in the 18th century owing to tensions with the Anglican British administration, but today serves a fairly large congregation. 

Point D – Saifee Mosque

Walk back past the Canning Street crossing and you will come upon the mosque, belonging to the Bohra Muslim community. Apparently named after one Saifuddin, the mosque is just about 130 years old, which makes it younger than the buildings we have visited so far. However, it is interesting for its architecture and colouring.

During our short walk, we have already visited a couple of churches, a synagogue, and a mosque, indicating the fascinating cultural melting pot that was old Calcutta. Next week, we will continue on this route, taking in a few more places of worship.

Palashi, the village that changed Indian history

In a clearing amidst mango orchards and fields stands a golden coloured statue. The subject of the statue is the last autonomous nawab of Bengal, Siraj-ud-Daulah, whose defeat in 1757 at the hands of the British set in motion a chain of events that would eventually lead to the colonisation of the whole of India. Today, the battle in which Siraj was defeated is still known as the Battle of ‘Plassey’, the anglicised version of the original Palashi, the small village on the east bank of the Bhagirathi river, about 50 km from Krishnanagar, in what is Nadia district today.

At first glance, the renowned battlefield seems fairly nondescript. Indeed, it looks like little more than a field and a modest sized mango orchard, rather than the theatre of war which changed the course of Indian history. However, as you walk around the field, it is easy to imagine the thundering of cannons, the screams of the dying and injured, the tumultuous confusion of battle between the British East India Company’s private army and the nawab’s forces

For many, it comes as a surprise to know that Plassey is not in Murshidabad district, considering the latter was the capital of Bengal before Calcutta was accorded the honour. Roughly 155 km from Kolkata and 50 km from Murshidabad, this is an excellent location from which to begin a larger tour of Bengal’s former capital.

The name Palashi derives from the Bengali word ‘palash’, for a distinctive, red-flowered tree. The village has a total population of approximately 20,000 and is connected to Kolkata by both train and bus. Parts of the original battlefield have been swept away as the Bhagirathi has changed course over the centuries, but the Palashi Memorial is still very much worth a visit, comprising shrines, obelisks and memorials to the fallen generals and soldiers of Siraj-ud-Daulah, apart from the statue of Siraj mentioned at the very beginning. 

Three obelisks mark the spots where Mir Madan (chief of artillery), Bahadur Ali Khan (commander of musketeers) and Nauwe Singh Hazari (captain of artillery) were killed in the battle. An inscription on a plaque states that they fell during an artillery charge led by Mir Madan, at around 2.00 p.m. on June 23. The general was eventually buried at the tomb of Farid Shah, about 5 km from Plassey. 

How deep the Battle of Plassey is embedded in both the Indian and British psyches is evident from the fact that in Ireland’s County Clare, an estate owned by Robert Clive – the architect of the British victory – was renamed ‘Plassey’ in order to commemorate the famous win. Also, at the nearby University of Limerick, the original office of the president was named Plassey House in the late 18th century, and the building continues to serve the university today.

Why not visit such an important location for yourself? Once you’re done here, travel onward to Murshidabad and stay at the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation’s Bohor Tourism Property (earlier Baharampur Tourist Lodge), which will serve as an excellent base for your tour of Murshidabad, which bore the brunt of the aftermath of Plassey. But that tour is another story.

West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.
Udayachal Tourist Lodge
DG Block (1st floor), Sec II, Salt Lake, Kolkata – 700091
Phone: 033 2358 5189
Email: visitwestbengal@yahoo.co.in, mdwbtdc@gmail.com, dgmrwbtdc@gmail.com
Website: https://www.wbtdcl.com/

Royal retreats, the heritage palace hotels of Bengal

Jhargram royal palace

Kolkata has traditionally been known as a ‘City of Palaces’. While the sobriquet is undoubtedly justified, it runs the risk of ignoring the hundreds of other palaces that West Bengal boasts of. Truth to tell, this is a ‘state of palaces’, many of which Kolkatans know next to nothing about. What’s more, many of them have been converted into beautiful heritage hotels and resorts, where you can spend an absolutely splendid weekend. This is part of the ‘Rajbari Hotel’ phenomenon, which has rapidly gained ground in West Bengal.

One of the foremost on the list has to be Jhargram royal palace, the ancestral seat of the Malla Deb dynasty, about 160 km from Kolkata. Part of the property is now a heritage hotel run by West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd, called the Jhargram Rajbari Tourism Project. About three km from the railway station, the palace continues to house descendants of the Malla Deb kings, but some parts of it are open to visitors, with prior permission. The main building is an extravagant Italianate structure, set amidst carefully designed lawns and gardens. The palace as a whole evokes several memories of the past, and the complex is also instantly recognizable from several popular Bengali films, such as ‘Sannyasi Raja’ and ‘Durgeshgorer Guptadhan’.

Amadpur Rajbari

Amadpur Rajbari is a nearly 375-year-old heritage property in the village of Amadpur in Purba Bardhaman, about two hours or 90 km from Kolkata by car along the Durgapur Expressway. The nearest railway station is the busy town of Memari, about four km away, though Amadpur itself is a typically beautiful and serene Bengali village. 

The palace is the property of the Chaudhuri family, whose ancestors lived in Malda or Murshidabad, from where Krishna Ram Sen Sharma, who was conferred the title of ‘Chaudhuri’, came to Amadpur after he was granted the zamindari of Amadpur along with other areas of Bardhaman and Hooghly districts by the Mughal Emperor in the mid-17th century.

The renovated structure boasts high ceilings, elegant verandahs and ancient furniture, all of which make your stay a memorable one, alongside the lovely traditional Bengali food.

Bari Kothi Heritage hotel

Then you have the Bari Kothi Heritage hotel in Azimganj, Murshidabad, an approximately six-hour drive from Kolkata, on the banks of the stunning river Bhagirathi. The mansion was owned by the Dudhoria Raj family of Azimganj in the late 1700s, and is a magnificent mix of Greek, Roman and French architecture. The luxury heritage hotel promises not just a super comfortable stay in its Heritage Suites, Royal Heritage Suites and Maharaja Heritage Suites, but a complete experience of the vibrant culture of Murshidabad and its little known ‘Sheherwali Heritage’, a traditionally Jain way of life.

Mahisadal Rajbari

Mahishadal Rajbari is less than a three-hour drive from Kolkata, a distance of about 100 km. Mahishadal actually has more than one ‘rajbari’, though only the one known as Phool Bagh has been converted into a hotel. The history of Mahishadal’s zamindari families date back to the reign of Akbar, when Kalyan Roy Chowdhury was the first to be bestowed the title of ‘Raja’ with Mahishadal and its adjoining areas under his jurisdiction. In the mid-16th century, when the Roy Chowdhurys defaulted on taxes, the zamindari was handed over to Janardan Upadhyay, who had arrived in Bengal from Uttar Pradesh as an official of the Mughal court. 

Even later, the zamindari went to the Garg family, when the male lineage of the Upadhyay family ended. The Phool Bagh palace, constructed in 1926, has long been a favourite with Bengal’s filmmakers, and its rooms offer a glimpse into the grand lifestyle of Mahishadal’s former rulers. The accommodation is fairly limited, with two rooms capable of accommodating about eight people, but the experience is a unique one nonetheless. 

Bawali Rajbari

Rajbari Bawali is already a fairly well known property located around two hours from Kolkata in the small village of Bawali in South 24 Parganas, now a sprawling heritage resort on a zamindari which once belonged to the Mondal family. No longer inhabited by the family, the huge, magnificent palace with extensive lawns was converted into a heritage hotel with all modern amenities by Kolkata-based businessman Ajay Rawla.

Itachuna Rajbari

Similarly,Itachuna Rajbari is also located barely two-and-a-half hours from Kolkata in Chinsurah subdivision of Hooghly district, and is also called the Bargi Danga. The mansion was built by the Kundan family, originally from Maharashtra, in 1766. The Kundans are descended from the Bargi, the Maratha soldiers who conducted regular attacks on the Bengal countryside. Having settled in Bengal, the Kundans became Kundus.

In the modern era, the palace has become familiar as the shooting location for several Hindi and Bengali films such as Lootera, Poran Jaye Jolia Re, and Rajmahal. The red and yellow of the main building, and the adjoining mud huts, make for an interesting ambience. The 200-year-old palace has five courtyards, and its rooms boast antique caskets, ornate wooden décor and many other artefacts from the past. The rooms have quaint Bengali names like Boro Boudi, Chhoto Boudi, Thakuma, Boro Pishi, Kaka Babu and Jyatha Moshai. 

For details of all these locations and their principal attractions, contact

West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd
DG Block, Sector-II, Salt Lake
Kolkata 700091
Phone: (033) 2358 5189, Fax: 2359 8292
Email: visitwestbengal@yahoo.co.in, mdwbtdc@gmail.com, dgmrwbtdc@gmail.com

Bhutanghat, paradise on earth

For a nature buff, the mere opportunity to spend time among rare species of flora and fauna co-existing in their natural habitat is a dream come true. One’s appreciation for ‘God’s hand’ tends to grow profoundly when one spends time away from all the chaos, in the midst of the unbridled natural beauty and wonders of our planet.

Located in Jalpaiguri district of West Bengal, Bhutanghat is situated in the mountainous terrain along the river Raidak near the Indo-Bhutan border and is around 45 km from Alipurduar. Known for its pristine evergreen forests, rolling tea gardens and mesmerizing natural beauty, this picturesque little hamlet is home to many rare animals, including the one-horned Asiatic rhino, leopards and spotted deer, making it a must-visit offbeat destination for all wildlife aficionados. 

The Aranya Tourism Property (earlier Jaldapara Tourist Lodge) provides an excellent base from where you can take in all the surrounding attractions, including Chilapata forest. Located just about an hour’s drive from Buxa (approximately 50 km), the splendid property offers plentiful accommodation at extremely reasonable rates.

An extension of the Buxa Tiger Reserve, Bhutanghat serves as an elephant corridor and has earned the popular sobriquet of ‘Elephant Country’. But that is not all that you will find in terms of exotic wildlife. Watch out for a glimpse of the rhinoceros, different types of deer such as chital, reptiles like the Royal python, bison, dhole (Indian wild dogs), civets, giant squirrels, bears, clouded leopard, and antelopes.

Also located close to Bhutanghat is the Narathali Lake, which is every bird watcher’s paradise, serving as the natural habitat for many migratory and endemic bird species like the pied hornbill, black stork, ibis bills, red star, migratory teal and minivet. 

Image Courtesy : North Bengal Tourism

Bhutanghat can be visited all year, but is mostly preferred during the monsoon season or just thereafter by tourists (mid-June to mid-September) when nature is at its finest. If you wish to spend the night in Bhutanghat, you can opt for the Jayanti or Hatiphota forest bungalows, which offer a fantastic view of the valley and mountain peaks, while their watchtowers provide a panoramic glimpse of the rich biodiversity of the region.

For further information on Bhutanghat and surrounding areas, do contact:

West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.
Udayachal Tourist Lodge
DG Block (1st floor), Sec II, Salt Lake, Kolkata – 700091
Phone: 033 2358 5189
Email: visitwestbengal@yahoo.co.in, mdwbtdc@gmail.com, dgmrwbtdc@gmail.com
Website: https://www.wbtdcl.com/

Sandakphu, a magical trek among the Himalayas

For those who don’t know this already, at an altitude of 3,636 m (roughly 11,000 ft) above sea level, Sandakphu is the highest peak in West Bengal, located in Darjeeling’s Singalila Ridge, on the West Bengal-Nepal border. Sandakphu is on the edge of the Singalila National Park and has a small village near its summit. But the real magic of Sandakphu is that four of the world’s five highest mountain peaks, namely Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse and Maka-lu, can be seen once you have gained its peak. 

Think about that for a minute – a view of four 8,000 m-plus peaks, along with their ranges. Not for nothing is the Phalut-Sandakphu trek among the most popular in the world. Indeed, it is one of the few treks on earth to offer you a view of so many spectacular mountain ranges. It is also one of India’s oldest trekking trails.

Once again for the benefit of those who are unaware, the best possible way to gain this peak is to trek there, which most people begin from Maneybhanjan, the base of Singalila range where the trek actually begins for Sandakphu, and then onward to Phalut. Maneybhanjan is a small village, about 26 km from Darjeeling and roughly 90 km from Siliguri. Adequate local transport is available from both places.

Incidentally, Phalut is the second highest peak in West Bengal, and is also located inside the Singalila National Park. The indigenous tribes who live near Phalut are called ‘Phalutians’. For centuries, they have worshipped the peak as a deity, calling it ‘Omna Re Ay’.

The Sandakphu trek is open for about eight months of the year, except the monsoon months of May to August. Depending on your weather preferences, you can do the trek in spring-summer, autumn, or winter. Should you choose winter, you must prepare for sub-zero tem-peratures, though the snowfall is usually very mild. And in spring-summer, your view of the mountains may not always be crystal clear owing to cloud cover, but the glorious infestation of rhododendrons, silver firs, and magnolias along the trail provide more than adequate com-pensation. In fact, every season offers its own unique landscape and views, so you are faced with a problem of plenty.

There are quite a few options when it comes to the route you take, but the average time taken for the entire stretch is five to six days, though you can always shorten this according to your convenience. The good thing here is that since there are no technically difficult sections on the Sandakphu-Phalut trek, it is equally suitable for beginners and seasoned trekkers alike.

Before we forget, an added attraction of Sandakphu is the magnificent River Teesta, which flows by at a roaring pace. The Teesta offers great options for adventure sports, especially river rafting. 

How to get there 
By air: Daily flights are available to Bagdogra, which is the nearest airport. From Bagdogra, you can take a bus or cab direct to Sandakphu. Or you could stop at Darjeeling, and then go on when you are ready.

By train: The nearest train station is New Jalpaiguri, with links to several routes. From NJP, a cab will take you to Sandakphu.
By road: You could take a bus from Kolkata to Siliguri, from where another bus will take you to Maneybhanjan, via Sukhiapokhri. SUVs are also available from Darjeeling to Maneybhan-jan.

Where to stay
You can stay at MEGHBALIKA TOURISM PROPERTY earlier Darjeeling Tourist Lodge, where one can have a spectacular view of the mountain from this vantage point. 

Several tour operators run the Sandakphu trek, and they have tents or camps situated along the trail. But even without a tent, you can stop at multiple tea houses along the way, which offer food and lodging for the night. 

For further details, contact
West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.
Udayachal Tourist Lodge
DG Block (1st floor), Sec II, Salt Lake,Kolkata700091
Phone: 033 2358 5189
Email: visitwestbengal@yahoo.co.in, mdwbtdc@gmail.com, dgmrwbtdc@gmail.com

Department of Tourism,
Government of West Bengal
New Secretariat Building
1, K. S. Roy Road, 3rd Floor,Kolkata 700001
Pr. Secy- 033-2214-4427
Direct – 033-2210-0098
E-Mail:wbtourismpublicity@gmail.com